i went to the cataratas de san luis today, which entailed a long, steepwalk down a concrete paved road, followed by another long trek by dirt road and slippery trail up to the most amazing waterfalls. i swam naked at the base and nobody saw but the birds and monkeys. they didn´t laugh too much. i took a taxi back to the top of the hill because otherwise i wouldn´t be able to walk for days. then i went to the butterfly gardens and walked home. blue morphos are almost impossible to photograph, but one landed on my shoulder and someone else to pics for me. la fortuna tomorrow morning, by jeep and boat. arenal volcano tomorrow night.